Salonika
War in the Birdcage
Tour Details
To be confirmed
Tour Introduction
This fabulous tour to the quiet and untouched area of northern Greece and North Macedonia takes us to the battlefields of one of the least visited and much overlooked campaigns of the First World War. The scenic backdrop will never be forgotten: spectacular hills and mountains, the picturesque Lake Doiran, wonderful springtime flowers, verdant vegetation and rustic villages. The battlefields on the Salonika front are some of the best preserved from the First World War and offer a great insight into the conditions which the men on both sides withstood. This necessarily means considerable walking (of up to 9 miles on one day) on occasionally awkward terrain, although at times local farmers with tractors will be at hand to provide all terrain transport. We will be staying in comfortable hotels in Thessaloniki, Serres and Star Dojran, almost on the battlefields themselves, offering the chance to sit on the terrace with a cold drink in the evening reflecting on the day’s explorations.
Highlights
- A wonderful tour in Greece & North Macedonia
- Explore Thessaloniki port and the White Tower
- Visit Lembet Road Cemetery
- See surviving elements of the infamous Birdcage defence line
- Visit to Struma Cemetery
- Explore the Doiran battlefield
- Enjoy a relaxing boat ride on Lake Doiran
- Visit the British Doiran Memorial and Cemetery
- Ascend the Grand Couronne to discover the Devil’s Eye Bunker
- The battlefield of Kosturino
- Three nights in a lakeside hotel
Background
The Salonika (or Macedonian) front was established in 1915 by the allies as an attempt to protect Serbia against a combined German, Austro-Hungarian and Bulgarian attack. Due to the late arrival of the mixed allied army and the sudden political upheaval in Greece, which resulted in them remaining neutral, they failed to stop the fall of Serbia. A stable frontline was established near what is now the Greek/North Macedonian border, which saw various actions until a big, allied advance in the September of 1918 led to the collapse of Bulgaria and Serbia’s liberation. The Salonika front is characterised by the huge mix of nationalities and armies that took part in the actions and also the terrible conditions endured by the soldiers. Weather extremes and disease were rife on the front line, the biggest problem being malaria which inflicted many more casualties than the fighting itself. There were around 160,000 admissions to British hospitals due to malaria over three years, which is almost equal to the fighting force.
"This was my first trip with the Cultural Experience and I was very impressed. Our tour manager and guide were extremely helpful and knowledgeable"
What's Included
- 3 & 4 Star Hotels
- Return flights from London (optional)
- Entrance fees for sites included in itinerary
- Dedicated Tour Manager
- The company of like-minded travelers
- Dinner parties hosted by your expert historians and tour manager
- Buffet breakfast each morning
- Two drinks i,e wine or beer at each dinner and a welcome drink on first evening
- Helpful and friendly travel advice
- Access to the Cultural Experience app
- Tour information booklet
- Modern, comfortable, air-conditioned coach
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival
Day 1: Arrival
Fly London to Thessaloniki (or join tour at airport). Drive to Star Dojran in North Macedonia where we check in to our hotel for four nights. Welcome drink and introductory talk. (D)
Day 2: Doiran
Day 2: Doiran
Today we explore sites near the town including a gentle 3-hour circular walk following tracks over scrubby, gently undulating and occasionally rocky terrain to La Tortue and Petit Couronne (3 miles/level 3) in the Bulgarian second line. Free time. (B,L,D)
Day 3: Doiran
Day 3: Doiran
Our exploration of the Doiran battlefield continues, taking in the varying terrain which played a key role in the story of the actions there. We begin with an uphill walk (1 miles/45 minutes) along tracks to bunkers of the Bulgarian 3rd Line from where the more adventurous can elect to ascend the Grand Couronne, with its fabulous view over the battlefield from the Devil's Eye bunker, before returning to Star Dojran via Hill 340 and the key Bulgarian position on The Hilt (round trip of 9 miles/level 3 walk). Late afternoon we will enjoy a relaxing boat trip on Lake Doiran. (B,L,D)
Day 4: Kosturino
Day 4: Kosturino
On the battlefield of Kosturino we learn of the first British action of the Salonika campaign. It was here that a much depleted and poorly equipped 10th Irish Division struggled against the invading Bulgarian army and we will have a chance to pay our respects at their divisional memorial. With much of the day on foot but with the aid of local farmers and their tractors we will cover up to 7 miles. (B,L,D)
Day 5: Struma Valley
Day 5: Struma Valley
Drive across the border back into Greece stopping at Dorian to visit the old station, the British monument to the missing and the CWGC cemetery. We then continue to the River Struma from where, high above, we assess the battlefield which was the scene of fierce fighting as XVI Corps stemmed the Bulgarian advance. Descending into the valley we look at the successful British offensive of October 1916 and compare that with the failure at Tumbitza Farm and Prosenik. Check-in to our hotel near Serres for one night. (B, L, D)
Day 6: Return
Day 6: Return
Returning to Thessaloniki we explore surviving elements of the infamous Birdcage defence line - so named due to the sheer quantity of barbed wire used - before heading to Lembet Road multinational WW1 cemetery. We drive to Thessaloniki airport for our afternoon flight back to London (or you may want to extend your stay in Greece). (B)
Recommended Reading List
- Neither Unionist nor Nationalist published by Irish Academic Press Ltd (2014)
- The Gardeners of Salonika published by Faber and Faber (2009)
- Under the Devil's Eye published by Pen & Sword Military (2017)
Tour Diary
View images of our 2018 Salonika tour here
Tour Review
Take a look at some independent reviews of this tour by previous participants here
